By Penelope and David Kerr on Tuesday, 09 September 2014
Category: Barging 2014

Continuing South

There are still canals we have not visited in the Northern part of France so we were pleased to be able to visit several on our way back south. the first decision to make; whether or not to traverse the Canal St Quentin with its notorious Riqueaval tunnel through which we would be towed. We again explored the possibility but finally decided yet again that it is not worth the risk. We then heard of two boats which had sustained damage during the previous week, so were supported in our decision.

Old Church and great flowers- Chauny

Instead we joined the Canal du Nord with its magnificent Ruyalcourt tunnel, over 4 kilometres long but with a passing area in the middle so that boats can go from either end at the same time. Again we met no- one so have not tried it out in practice. From the Canal we turned east for the first of our new experiences, the Canal from the Sambre to the Oise. Earlier in the year we recounted the sad tale of the Sambre River flowing North into Belgium, previously providing an excellent route between the two but now blocked by a collapsed Pont Canal (taking the Canal over the River) in France. We travelled for some distance along the Belgian part of this route to visit the delightful Sambre Valley and several towns including Thuin. Now we planned to try out the French part of the Route, the Canal from the Sambre to the Oise, kept open and maintained but not much used except for the first few kilometres where barges visit the local silos. We set off from Chauny, a most attractive, beautifully kept town, with flowers everywhere and roundabouts which would feature on our list of "Prettiest roundabouts in France". The competition for this tag is very fierce. There are some very old Churches here. The Diocese is celebrating the 1700th anniversary of Christianity in the area.

Another great French Roundabout (Chauny)

We had to plan this trip in advance to give notice the previous afternoon of our plans. The lock- keeper clearly thought we must not realise that the blockage was in place  and that the canal was closed on Sunday, as it would be for the next month, starting in a few days time. We finally set his mind at rest that we just wanted a quick trip, up one day, back the next. After that the staff were very obliging and helpful to us in getting to our turn- around spot, Ribemont. The little- used automatic locks needed some adjustment but help was always quick to come and very obliging. The countryside was most attractive with the Oise River always very close to the canal. The town of Ribemont, set high above the river, had seen better days but there were several buildings which had been quite remarkable in the past, including an ancient abbey with an interesting history.

Along the little-used canal to the Sambre

It seems a pity that this excellent canal which used to carry huge tonnages of commercial cargo is now out of action because of a single collapse; on the other hand, repair would cost millions of Euros and the "peniche" style of barge it can accommodate is becoming rarer in Belgium and the Netherlands, though still quite common throughout France. A peniche carries about 300 tons; the newer canals accommodate barges carrying about 3,000 tons, hence the hesitation in deciding to put aside the funds for repair of the peniche- sized canal.

A very different War Memorial- Ribemont

Our final "new" canal took us from the Oise River to the Aisne River through very attractive rural country towards Champagne where we were back to familiar routes.

 

View of lakes near canal near Ribemont

Best Regards,

Penelope and Dave

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