By Penelope and David Kerr on Tuesday, 13 August 2013
Category: Barging 2013

The confusing Scarpe

Leaving the busy "Grand Gabarit"(i.e. "Canal of large dimensions") near Douai, we turned into the Scarpe Superior to enjoy more time on quiet canals and to visit the town of Arras, at the head of the river. This part of the River is not much travelled. Only ten boats in a year have proceeded to the last navigable port, and this might account for the confusing information we were given about it.

Fun on the Scarpe Superior- there are some world champions train here
Our first problem was to get the telecommander to operate the locks, Our guide, bought recently but proving to be out of date, indicated that the telecommander was issued at the first lock on the river. Not so: it was supposed to be given to us at the last lock on the main canal. Knowing nothing of this we did not respond to the whistling of the eclusier as we left the lock and turned into the river, to find the first lock unmanned. After a phone call and a visit from the lock- keeper's wife, David had to ride back to the previous lock to pick it up.

There is trouble ahead- but they do not know it yet!
This was not the last of the confusions. Our guide of moorings indicated that the end of the river into Arras is no longer navigable because of silting. As we were keen to get there so that our current guests could get to the train, we emailed the VNF to double check the current status. They replied that the river is open right into Arras, we would have no problems with depth. Not so: the next day when we arrived at the third last lock, St Laurent Blangy, we found the lock lights blank so pulled up on a pontoon immediately before. David pressed the button anyhow, and lo and behold, the green light went on and the gates opened. We pulled out from the quay and found that there was a large and clear "Do not enter" sign over the lock itself, despite the green light. Then we heard a voice from, we found, the capitaine of the St Laurent Blangy Halte, that the lock was closed and the next sections shallow, hence the sign. We pulled in again to tie up at the Halte Plaisance so Anja did not make it to Arras. There is an excellent bus service right to the station, so it was if anything easier for our guests to depart and we could catch the bus or cycle into the town to explore it.

The nearby park
This river is very attractive and the towns along it beautiful. Many of them are three and four "Fleurie" towns so we see flowers everywhere. We are moored adjacent to a major kayaking and canoeing venue which offers both white and still water facilities, as well as an indoor training set- up for those cold winter months. The town boasts World Championship and and Olympic medal holders. People come even from Belgium to train here and during this wonderful extended summer we have been entertained by the less skilful enjoying rafting down the rapids in four and eight man rafts. The major sticking point is 10 metres away from us where the rafters get stuck high and dry, or else fall out as they hit the barriers. There is always someone on hand to help them out.


Across the canal is a huge park area where a "Beach" has been set up for the summer. Here there is a huge range of activities for children of all ages including sand pits with overhead fountains,  pools, a little train, juggling classes, horse rides, four and eight person bikes and jumping castles. Entry is free and many if not all the activities are also free. There is a similar set-up in Arras in the Grand Place, though it does not have the advantage of a beautiful natural setting by the river.  

The beach- 50metres away

So we are glad we persisted with the Scarpe Superior. It deserves to have more than 10 visitors in a year. It also deserves to have clearer information available. We wonder why there has not been a concerted effort to clear the way into Arras, where there are pleny of moorings available and an interesting town to be visited, though perhaps not the extra attractions of white water rafting.   

Best Regards,

Penny and Dave

A very pleasant train for the younbg ones

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