Kerr Barging Blogs

For the last few days we have been indulging in yet another new experience- travelling on a newly re-opened Canal. From Vitry le Francois our route takes us South to Burgundy, along the Canal between Champagne and Burgundy, previously called the Canal between the Marne and the Saone. At the end of this canal we plan to travel north - east on the Canal des Vosges. This route was planned for last year but not possible then because there was a collapse at Charmes which closed the whole canal for over a month.

We knew that the Canal from Vitry was closed for routine maintenance from the end of
April until the end of May, to re- open on Tuesday May 28th. Why a Tuesday, we wondered? Because Monday was a public holiday, Pentecost Monday, the fifth public holiday in May. We arrived on the Friday before and told the Capitaine at the Port de Plaisance of our intention. It seems that this comment put us in the queue in spot number one for pleasure boats- or else we were put there because our grand- daughter Mary gave the Capitaine such a winning smile.

By this time there were six or seven commercial boats waiting so we knew we would not get away early on Tuesday. In the event, the VNF decided that it would devote the morning to getting them underway and the first pleasure boat (us) could leave at 2pm. An Englishman at the port had been pacing all morning as he thought he should be able to get underway at 10am and prevailed on David to give up our top spot to him. We were in no hurry and did so politely but regretted it later when his slow progress meant that we were waiting for him to finish at every lock.  The barge queue- right across to stop queue-jumping

So what is different about travelling from the first day of a newly re- opened canal? First,for several days you can be comfortable that no- one will be coming towards you. The entire 224 kilometres of canal is clear, so until the commercials drop or pick up a load and turn around, and until the boats from the south get past the middle, everyone is travelling the same way. We have now finished day 4 without any oncoming traffic.

Because the canal has been empty for so long, people seem to notice the barges more. Today was the first time we have ever had a toot and a wave from a train driver.

There is a great deal of weed in the canal. At times on the first day we seemed to be ploughing through underwater gardens. One of the locks broke down at the end of the first day probably because of the buildup of material in the water which prevented the gates from openning fully. The month has been used to make repairs to the sides of the canal, which can only be done when it is not in use, and it was probably drained to some extent. In general the lock mechanisms and lock walls were not on the "to do" list this time.

Because everyone is going the same way, all the locks are the "wrong" way around. For us this means that every lock we come to has taken the previous boat upwards and stayed that way. Before we can enter it has to empty again so that we too can be taken upwards. As a result evey lock takes twice as long to get through. If these were manned locks the lock- keeper would probably leave the locks ready because all the boats are travelling upstream. Unfortunately in this case "automatic" means "not that smart".  

We are very pleased that we did not change our plans, and waited until the Canal was open. It is a very pretty rural canal, with  the Marne still flowing alongside. The main town so far has been St Dizier where in 1544 42,000 soldiers of Charles V were repelled by 2,000 brave men (plus 2,500 women and children) of the town so that it was saved for Francois 1st and Paris was kept safe. It is now a modern expanding industrial town, very attractive and well maintained. The roses were magnificent in the homes fronting the canal. We were moored opposite a large swimming complex which seemed to be doing a roaring trade, with people coming in and out constantly. Other nights have been spent surrounded by fields in the quiet countryside.The manually cranked bridge

A surprise today was seeing on the chart two bridges marked "manually operated". We had already today been through several "automatic" lifting bridges operated by a VNF person pressing a button. The only other manually operated one we have experienced was on the Nivernais Canal where David had to get off the barge to crank it up so that Anja could pass through. Then Peter Aston was driving but Penny is not confident to squeeze through the narrow opening typical of these bridges, so she was flexing her muscles and doing her warm- ups as we approached the first of these manual bridges. While we were looking for a spot where a bridge- opener could get off the barge, we were relieved to see a VNF man appear in the usual little white van and start to turn the crank handle.

Best Regards,
Penny and Dave

Over the next few days we continued our pleasant time in Champagne territory, very different this year with the vines just showing their leaves whereas last year the harvest was in full swing. Instead of finding streets full of vehicles carrying grapes and juice, with pickers camping out wherever they could, the towns were very quiet.

 Talon, who was born in Chalons and designed Quebec

David and Wendy explored the Grand Cru town of Ay, just bursting with Champagne houses (and added to the ship supplies). We learned there that last year's harvest was the second earliest since 1821, so we can count ourselves lucky that we saw the grape picking activity last year.

Soon we entered new territory, continuing along the Canal Lateral to the Marne to reach its junction at Vitry le Francois. The highlight of this section of the Canal was Chalons-en-Champagne with its many waterways, beautiful public gardens and tree-lined walks. We were at the Port de Plaisance located on a small river off the Canal.  Everywhere in Chalon's town centre are plaques and signs in French, English and German to describe its very interesting history and the background of its buildings. There are several walks through the town which  inform the visitor about the places of interest, going back hundreds of years.

Here was yet another Unesco World Heritage Site (Notre Dame Cathedral- one of two huge Cathedrals) to add to our large list. As often the case, this place is not even mentioned in the "Lonely Planet" which focusses on the big tourist areas and can also be subject to the whims of the writers (or, perhaps, where they have travelled). The people of Chalons definitely make the most of their pleasant surroundings and there seemed to be a non- stop procession of runners, cyclists and families with their children in strollers. One little girl had a rabbit in her bike basket and was struggling to keep it from hopping out. Of course her dad was on hand to wrap it tightly and settle it down- at least for 50 metres.

Our granddaughter Mary was a wonderful bargee but there is not much space to crawl on the barge, so when she spotted the huge floor in "Galleria" in Chalons during our re-stocking trip to the market and supermarket, she took off in all directions. Her last really good crawl had been in the Pompidou Centre in Paris surrounded by modern art. The French are very tolerant of such behaviour and she was rewarded with smiles rather than frowns.

Chalons has three Museums and we managed to visit them all. Among many other things were:

• Two small birds that were killed and buried with him when Napoleon died.
• Plenty of beautiful Sevres jars and plates
• A huge number of beautiful wooden scale models of famous buildings/churches around France

Vitry le Francois at the end of the Canal Lateral to the Marne is mainly an industrial town, largely destroyed in 1940 and 1944. Waterways meet here to go east, west and south so it is an important junction. The southern canal, the "Canal entre Champagne and Bourgogne" has been closed for repairs for a month, to reopen on Tuesday May 28th. We arrived in time for Wendy and Mary to catch the train to Paris to the airport and home. The canal is due to reopen in four days' time and we plan to join the queue when it does. When we arrived there were five commercial barges lined up to go through; more drifted in over the weekend. As they take priority we do not expect to get away until late on Tuesday afternoon. On top of that, there are about 8 pleasure boats also lined up. Meanwhile, we are having a quiet time getting used to life without our grand- daughter's happy presence.

Notre Dame Cathedral (too big to photograph properly!)	Inside
The main street of Chalons	The main street of Chalons
Columns from ancient Cloister	Sevres
Intricate, detailed, wooden Models	Our mooring in Chalons!
Another Cathedral near our mooring location	Another view

Here is a set of photos from the following:

Vineyards of Champagne
The house of Louise and his parents
The bed of Louise Braille's parents (he slept upstairs in the unheated attic)
Here is our typical lunch
The "devil's House"- so named by bargemen of the past (they were fearful of it)
Dormans War Memorial
and one of the many stained glass windows
Modern Barrages have huge electric motors to operate them but this barrage was formed of hundreds or thousands of these rectangular steel posts which must be manually lowered into position (or raised) from a boat!
On the way to Braille's House, David visited a garden full of huge sculptures beautifully carved from the shattered stone from some wartime bombing. They are about three times life size
David Steering

Our route after leaving Paris took us up the Marne River, retracing our steps from last year, though in the oposite direction. At first we found the Marne current very strong and had to keep a sharp eye out for large logs and branches and even whole trees being washed down after the recent heavy rains. As the days went past with little extra rain the current slackened and there was less debris.The River Marne

We again enjoyed the town of Lagny with its excellent market. David rode to Louis Braille's house at Coupvray from Lagny. It looked to be a straightforward ride along the canal but ended up as quite an adventure on difficult paths. The story of his (Braille's) life was an inspiration. We won't repeat it here because you can find it in many other places. The museum curator was a total expert on Braille, his family and his life plus life at the time. He told me (Dave) about Black Brie (Brie Noir) and we were able to taste and buy some at the Jouarre Affineur.

We had hoped to stop nearby on the canal the next day so that the rest of us could visit but in the event, as so often happens, the timing was wrong and we missed out.

Next was Meaux where getting into the port de plaisance was quite difficult across the strong current and blown also by the wind. This had been one of the spots where David knew that the bow thruster would be missed and so it proved, but after a couple of attempts to come into the quay, we were finally successful and appreciated the presence of others who were ready to take our lines.
  Sunset at Meaux
Here we were in Brie and our visitors were very keen to visit the dairy where Brie de Meaux is made. We discovered that it would be possible to visit for a tour in English only on Saturday afternoon at 4.30pm. For once we were in the right place (almost) at the right time, the catch being that Meaux cheese is actually made in Jouarre, 40 kilometres away. It was possible to get to Jouarre by train and reach the Cave after a 3.3km uphill walk. The men in the party took off to do this and enjoyed the chance to hear the story of the cheese's production, see the storage and finally taste the many varieties available. They arrived back at Anja carrying a huge wheel of Brie de Meaux cheese which we have been working through ever since.

Affination of Brie (5,000 per annum)

Another daughter joined the crew along the way, en route from Croatia to Guernsey, and soon with a very full barge we were in Champagne territory. Again our visitors were very keen to sample the local product but we were reminded of the difficulties of touring in May- there are so many public holidays. We had already had May Day (May 1) and Liberation Day (May 8) and now (May 17) it was Ascension Thursday, a date which changes every year as it is tied to Easter. Chateau Thierry promised "Magnificent Cellars set in a medieval quarry" but the English language tour would not be conducted on Ascension Thursday or on the next day which also seems to take on the status of a holiday, even in train timetables.

When we pulled up at the town of Chateau Thierry, we were rather surprised to see that a circus was in town and right next to the barge were giraffes, llamas, donkeys and plenty of other animals. We stayed there for a while so that the baby could visit the animals but then moved further upriver where it was quieter.

Chateau Thierry

So we moved on to Dormans to find that the tiny village of Vincelles, only two kilometres away, offered several Caves which met our needs and provided us with Champagne to go with our Brie de Meaux.

The Halte at Dormans is very pleasant, adjacent to a camping area with play equipment, a mini golf course and several petanque courses. Our petanque set had a good workout. Dormans also has a train station which allowed us to farewell two of our guests. One of our daughters and our  granddaughter will continue with us for another week.

Best Regards,

Penny and Dave

 First of the spring cygnets at Dormans

Here are some photos- mainly of the excellent views of Paris seen from the barge as we moved up the Seine. The cars are from the car rally at St Mammes.

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We had some trepidation about entering the marina in Paris without a bow thruster. We had visited the Arsenal Marina during our five day trip to Paris in 2009 a year before we bought Anja and remembered it as full of boats moored very close together. We had booked our spot there before we left Sydney and David emailed a week before our arrival to inform the capitaine that we would be less manoeuverable than usual so might need assistance. In the event we had been allocated an excellent position at the end of the marina and were able to pull in and tie up without too much difficulty. We felt quite at home because straight opposite we saw Sundancer II, a yacht from our Cruising Club in Australia.

The Arsenal Marina is very well positioned in Paris between the Place de la Bastille and the Seine River. There is a metro station at each end which made their trip from the airport much easier. Our daughter Wendy, son in law Dave and 9 month old grand-daughter Mary met us there the day after we arrived, and we spent several enjoyable days exploring a few Paris highlights. The very cold and damp weather was a shock for our visitors but the central heating on Anja kept us warm at night.

Since we arrived in France we have been aware of the Presidential elections. The first round involved ten candidates, reduced to two for a run- off two weeks later, the Sunday of our stay at the marina. We had seen the voting tents being erected in the square outside the Hotel de Ville (Town Hall) in the centre of Paris. Now we found that we were going to be very close to the action, as the supporters of the favoured candidate, Francois Hollande, were gathering in the Place de la Bastille. The election results would become public around 8pm and by five o'clock the streets were being closed down and the gendarmes gathering. The results were quite tight but by 8.30, it was clear that Hollande would win and more and more supporters poured into the Place, many climbing the monument  for a better view. The party continued well into the night. It had clearly been arranged beforehand as there were sound systems, music and singers as well as many speeches. It was actually difficult to get out of the marina because all gates were locked and guards with dogs and police launches were on patrol.

 St. Martin tunnelHollande's win

There are several Canals that go through Paris, joining up with the Seine at both ends of the system. We decided that we would enjoy seeing Paris from the water so obtained permission to leave the Arsenal Marina via the Canal St Martin, later turning into the Canal St Denis which in turn joins the Seine to the North of the City. The trip begins with a tunnel 2 kilometres long under the Place de la Bastille and roads leading from it. The tunnel is not lit but there are regular gratings above which provide some light. Once we had negotiated the tunnel we were faced with several double locks placed only a few hundred metres apart, lifting the level some 45 metres to the Villette Basin, then the Canal St Denis drops the level again more slowly until it reaches the Seine. We met a couple of long term eclusiers (lock keepers) who are leaving because the locks are being automated and their work enjoyment was from meeting people from all over the world.

Along the Canal St Martin we admired many fine Paris houses and old buildings. The Canal St Denis passes through a mainly industrial landscape and we came across several shanty towns which looked quite permanent.

 Canal St. Denis

Once we turned into the Seine we struggled against the fast flowing current (from the floods), especially through the bridges where the current seemed to pick up as it met the pylons. Many spots along the River were flooded. We travelled some 20 kilometres up the Seine at a very slow pace before we reached the highlights of the trip, starting with the Eiffel Tower and continuing with a view from the river of the many famous buildings and bridges along the Seine, including the Notre Dame Cathedral, Quai d' Orsay, the Tuilleries and the Pont Neuf. The current past the Ile de la Cite became even faster as the River narrowed, so Anja was battling to maintain any forward momentum. We estimated the current at about 16km/hr and at maximum power we were doing 2km/hr- well below the minimum speed limit. We had plenty of time to enjoy the sights at less than walking pace. We greatly enjoyed this part of the trip though we found that we were sharing the view with many "Bateau Mouches" showing their passengers the same sights and speeding in both directions every 30 seconds or so.

Seine in flood 

It was getting quite late as we left the city area and turned into the Marne River to tie up adjacent to the lock, closed by now. We found the pontoon where it was marked but all the bollards were under water. We had our first experience of tying to underwater bollards, yet another new skill to be learned by the crew. The level of the Marne was a metre or more above the usual level. It too was running very fast with the barrages significantly lowered to allow the impressive volumes of water to pass. There were plenty of branches and trees floating down.

 Fighting the current

Statue of Liberty

One of many beautiful bridges