Back to Belgium

We had an uneventful trip from Tholon to Antwerp where we were heading for Willemdok, the only accessible marina in Antwerp for boats on the move. To get there we needed to make our way through about 20 kilometres of docks entering on each side of us- there are 200 kilometres of docks here. Willemdok is a former industrial dock area, now converted for leisure boats. We had been told it was huge but even so had tried to book ahead, to be informed that was not possible.  

The Town Hall of Antwerp

Entry was not straightforward. First we had to be let through two opening bridges, the second of which operates on a fixed and quite limited schedule. It took us over an hour to get through these bridges even though they are only 500 metres apart. Waiting for the second, to give access to the marina, we were approached by the harbour master in his inflatable boat,  looking very frazzled. He would lead us onto our mooring- along with the other ten or so boats waiting for the same bridge opening. In all, 60 boats entered the Marina that day and were rafted two or three deep in the massive area available. By the time the day finished there were 600 boats there. It was very secure, with only one, locked, gate but we were a long way from the entrance.

Embossed leather walls with gold leaf!

We enjoyed visiting Antwerp, a good size for getting about and not too crowded. We visited Rubens House and also the Plantin- Moretus Museum of Printing (in the original Plantin Home) which has copies of two rare original Gutenberg Bibles. Both houses have walls lined with embossed leather. The Cathedral and Town Hall are very impressive, The MAS Tower gives a remarkable view of the city, and best of all the tourist bureau was welcoming and very helpful. We were in the main Square for a procession of the Guilds through the streets, with members dressed in traditional clothing.   This is an annual event and lasts most of the day. At the end of the long march, there was an archery competition in the main square, using ancient, traditional crossbows.

Guilkd marchers, in traditional costumes, marching through Antwerp

One of the two libraries in Plantin's house

Leaving Antwerp was even more difficult than arriving. To continue our journey south we needed to leave the ease of the non- tidal area, a luxury we had enjoyed for the last few days of travel, and once more enter the tidal rivers, in this case the Boven Zeeschelde and Zeeschelde, to travel 83 kilometres further south towards our next destination, the lock at Merelbeke which marks the end of the tidal influence and the start of the Bovenschelde.

One of the early Gutenberg Bibles

We had carefully planned our trip so that when we left Antwerp we could catch the tide with plenty of daylight to travel the eighty three kilometres, a huge daily distance for us. The tide runs at 6 kilometres an hour at its peak. With it we could travel at 13 kph easily; against it we would stand still.

Inside Rubens' House
Rubens' House from the garden

Our plan was to leave at 6.30 am but then we found that the first bridge opening was at 6.30, with a second bridge and a busy lock to follow. In the end we were delayed two hours so missed two hours of the tide. We travelled with it as it worked its way towards Ghent, and eventually it turned against us about an hour before we reached our destination at Merelbeke. We then appreciated even more how much it had helped us along on this long day's travel.

Best Regards,

Penny and Dave