Into Belgium

We entered Belgium from France without seeing the actual border, though there were boat formalities to carry out because this part of Belgium, Wallonia, requires a certificate of permission for boats to travel its waters. This costs nothing but we did need to present our ships papers at the first lock we passed through once we entered Belgium. This was a friendly transaction and there was  not a great deal of scrutiny of the documents we had so carefully assembled, but we were duly issued with our free "Permis de Circulation". We were especially welcomed as the first Australian boat that lock- keeper had even seen there.

Cliffs of the Meuse
The separation within Belgium between Wallonia and Flanders is significant with separate official languages in the two areas:  French in Wallonia in the South and Flemish (very like Dutch) in Flanders in the North. In Brussels both languages are officially used. This language separation is complete- the language on all signs changes as one crosses from Wallonia into Flanders and we were advised to speak English, not French, at Flemish locks. There is a long an uneasy history of dissension and accommodation between the two areas, which is relevant also for the balance of power politically as each area has different parties and different outlooks. After the last election in 2010 it took 541 days for the government to be sworn in. Our friends told us this was a comfortable period and life went on as usual.

Dinant. First spot in Belgium for us- also where David was pickpocketed of 400euros
We have commented on the beauty of the Ardennes area through which the Meuse flows, and this continues into the Belgian Ardennes area which is a major holiday destination. School holidays have just begun so there is a festival atmosphere in the towns along the river. We see climbers abseiling up the chalk cliffs, people in small boats having fun, children learning to sail and kayak and lots of hikers and cyclists along the tow paths.

Dinant's Bridge of Giant Saxophones
Last year we had met a Belgian couple at a Chambre d'Hotes near St Emilion. They were interested in our adventures and invited us to call on them if we ventured along their part of the Meuse in Belgium, Profondeville, assuring us that there is a  suitable quay at the bottom of their garden. This we did and had a most pleasant day in their company.

They drove us to two places high above the river so that we could have a marvellous view of the Meuse and its territory. It was also very interesting to hear about the history of the area- Genevieve was born in the very old house where they now live. We saw where the significant flood of 1995 had reached half way up the walls of their ground floor, and were shown the pathway that has been preserved for centuries behind the water- front houses which are prone to flooding, so that their occupants can escape in an emergency.  While we were with them, the King of Belgium announced his abdication, so we were right on the spot to find out more about this aspect of Belgian life as well.

Profunderville (Anja is centre-right)
The towns and cities of Wallonia are quite varied. Dinant celebrates Adolph Sax, the inventor of the saxophone. It was full of holiday makers. Namur, the administrative centre of Wallonia, has preserved much of its history. There is little industry there. The university is central to its life. Liege is a larger and more industrial city. It has a beautiful and historic cathedral and a Church and town walls dating back to the 10th century, but the river is lined with rather unattractive twelve story apartment buildings. In both these towns there are excellent museums which helped us to become more informed about Belgium and its history.

Chateau Dave (named after me of course!)
While wandering around Namur our attention was drawn to a very popular ice cream shop, with queues coming out the door. Then we noticed that the awning was green and gold with a small kangaroo emblem. Closer inspection revealed "Home Made Australian Ice Cream"- what a winner!

Chateau/Citadel at Namur
The River Meuse is very busy with many large commercial boats, in contrast to the French part of the Meuse where there were very few. Liege is the third largest port in Belgium and some of the locks, all of them very large, operate twenty four hours a day during the week. There are are also many Dutch and increasingly numerous Belgian pleasure boats now the official holiday season has begun.

 Liege waterfront

Best Regards,

Penny and Dave